Baile Herculane (Romania) to Varna (Bulgaria)

(Distance 784km’s; 38 hrs riding time - Cumulative from Paris 3417km’s; 167 hours)

The first part of the ride from Baile Herculane was very scenic, but with the good comes the challenge – it was steep! We climbed and climbed and climbed. We had glimpses of a river gently meandering down – as we went up. Most of the climb was shaded by trees which brought welcome relief from the heat. Our lunch stop was at the bottom of a steep downhill in a very windy spot. After lunch we rode through villages where locals stopped and watched us go by – some puzzled by this invasion of cyclists through their village and others waving us on. The tandem does turn heads and chuckles as we pass by, often too late for a second glance.
There are many stray dogs in Romania. Many of us armed ourselves with various dog repelling systems from high frequency whistles and pepper spray to sticks or stones. Most dogs are too lazy and disinterested in reacting to the cycles while those who are a little more energetic are disappointed. Before they have managed to get the bark out we are long past. The dogs that try and give chase give up very quickly when they realise that the competition is too fierce. Our stick is more like a police truncheon which Carl claims is better than any spray – which would probably blow all over me at speed and is taped to the cross bar with insulation tape. The dog would have to be really vicious to prompt Carl to use it. So far intimidation – steering directly at the dog at speed - has served us well. Much better than having to manoeuvre the tandem at speed, remove the truncheon and whack the dog! The pepper spray approach baffles me. How does one aim the spray at a barking/ chasing dog in the wind? Imagine if there was more than one dog, which one does one take aim at first? Oh the lengths we go to with our theories of protection. So far there have been no major attacks to report. One cyclist, who shall remain nameless, tried to test the pepper spray, messed some on his hand, managed to wipe his mouth after the test and – suffered for the rest of the day!
We stayed in a hotel in Targu Jiu instead of a campsite. This was interesting and worth the experience. We were treated to pizza and salad for dinner. Breakfasts in these places take some getting used to. Ham slices are painstakingly cut in four and arranged on a plate along with cheese slices also neatly arranged. All looks good but enough to get one over the hills and to the lunch stop. Cooked breakfasts with toast or pastries stayed behind in Western Europe!
Ramnicu Valcea was our next overnight stop. In an attempt to stay off the busy roads, the organisers proposed some back roads which were horrendous. The numerous uphills had to be struggled up in our lowest gear and because the surface was so bad we could go no faster than 10 – 15km’s on the downhills, burning brake blocks and shaking both bike and rider to pieces. In Carl’s view this is where mountain bikes with rear suspension were required. Our average speed often seems quite low - mainly because of the terrible road surfaces which often make speed downright dangerous. It’s also amazing how much rolling resistance gets generated from these poor surfaces. One has to pedal hard on a level road!
On the way to our camping spot at Orange Pensionne we passed the local water world – wall to wall in bodies of all shapes and sizes. This was a Sunday and from all accounts and the sheer numbers, this was obviously the place to be. One fellow cyclist commented that you could drown there and it would take a week before you’re found! About a half dozen young pear trees provided very little shade and the rest of us had to pitch tents in the heat. This Pensionne is adjacent to the local zoo. The night time sounds here were interesting. We had lions roaring into the night and dogs barking from all directions. This all seemed like a well rehearsed event. We awoke to the roar of lion and birdsong.
It’s amazing how some things amuse us. The showers in the hotels or pensions we’ve stayed in don’t have shower doors. This makes for an interesting shower. Often the hand held shower is attached to a mixer tap too which is even more interesting. I have on occasion found it easier to sit on the shower floor under the tap in an attempt not to flood the whole bathroom floor.
The ride to Dragondana will be remembered by all of us for a very long time. It was Monday morning and we had no option but to ride on the main road which had no shoulder. Romanian drivers beat South African taxi drivers hands down. I have never been so scared in my life with 50 ton trucks flying past us at 120km’s per hour with barely inches to spare. Oncoming traffic passes each other not one, but two at a time, forcing us off the road on more than one occasion. We were really pleased that we fitted the tandem with broader wheels, enabling us to make the transition from bitumen to rutted road verge with relative ease – except of course when the road verge was replaced by a meter deep concrete channel! We eventually arrived at overnight stop where Carl attached a piece of plastic tubing to the bike carrier which now sticks out 30cm’s into the road resplendent with dozens of brightly coloured luminous ribbon attached.
The Motel we stayed at is 7km’s off the road. How it was found is a mystery. We were meant to camp there. When the leaders arrived they were shown the car park which the owner had graciously set aside for our camping – a hard concrete in the boiling sun! The lawned area adjacent to the car park was definitely not available for camping! She eventually allowed us to “camp” in the foyer and lounge area of the motel – the thoroughfare to the public toilets and where guests would normally sit on couches and relax! Carl and I found a spot behind a couch, while others slept on the couches. Two or three cyclists chose to pitch their tents inside, leaving off the flysheet, in an attempt to be protected from mozzies – that evening there were none – not even they could endure the smell coming from the toilets! Outside was on a narrow, busy road with a huge volume of very big trucks that rumbled up and down. In Carl’s view the only redeeming feature of the place where the pretty mini-skirted staff- he got some lovely pics of two of them trying to carry tables across the busy road.
We were treated like VIP’s into Bucharest. A lone traffic officer on his motorbike escorted us to our hotel in downtown Bucharest – opposite the Palatul Parlament (The Palace of the Parliament). The escorted convoy was necessary because of traffic and almost no regard for cyclists. The traffic officer so enjoyed this task and thought we were so amazing that he offered to escort us out of Bucharest again! Bystanders stopped and stared while others applauded. There were some motorists who were not very impressed with us as they were made to wait at intersections as we were given right of way. One lady who tried to defy the order to stop ended up losing her bumper as she collided into the back of the car in front of her. She will always remember us!
Carl and I joined the group for a tour around the Palace which Cher.......... had built – the world’s second largest building after the Pentagon. This man spared no cost at a time when his country was bankrupt. He even tried to emulate the Champs Elysees except it had to be wider. It is astounding the way he went about his business. His life was cut short so was never able to enjoy this monstrosity and the extravagance. The windows are draped with silk curtains. Opulence in the extreme.
We left Bucharest and headed for the Bulgarian border – our seventh country on this trip. Cyrillic is foreign to all of us so navigation is going to be a challenge. (For Bulgaria read – БъЛГАРИЯ)!!
Our first overnight stop in Bulgaria was Ruse (РУСЕ). There was one problem. The accommodation had not been finalised. One of the leaders had rushed off ahead to go scouting for a place for us to stay. Notwithstanding that this trip was booked many months ago; it’s astounding that all of a sudden accommodation was uncertain. Anyhow a motel was found and all seemed good until the owner arrived and advised that he was expecting construction workers to have a party there that evening, and that their alcohol induced behaviour precluded our staying there. We ended up having to ride another 15 km’s or so to a spot beside the road – a picnic spot with ’squat’ toilets only! Many of us “showered” in spring water from a pipe about 15cm’s above the ground – a refreshing rinse off. This spot was idyllic - beside a lake and under beautiful trees. A bonus was the family run restaurant across the lake where we had drinks and delicious pancakes and ice cream served to us by the beautiful daughter of the owners. The owner made us feel very welcome - communicated through his daughter who had to interpret everything for him.
The people of Bulgaria are very different to those of Romania and even Hungary. With very few exceptions they are friendly and always try and help – in spite of enormous language and cultural barriers. The country also seems far more organised and while one still has the traditional shepherds and donkey carts, much of the agriculture is mechanised. The road surfaces are better and the drivers more considerate. Bulgaria is a lovely country and we’ll be back here again.
Ruse to Shumen/Sumen (ШУМЕН) was a long hard 137km’s ride. This would rank up there with our ride to Xertigny in France – very hard. We climbed and climbed – long and steep. It was hot but the shade from the forest brought welcome relief. Carl is so good at pacing us and encouraging me. We take our time up these very steep climbs – just us and the scenery around us. Now and again on the downs we catch up with Jos or one of the other front riders. The things that keep me going are that there must be a downhill somewhere after an uphill climb and also I remember that I managed to get up Alpe d’Huez by myself on a single at my pace and did it! The reward at the end of the longest climb of the day was riding through the cool forest and being welcomed by the birds singing in the trees. The forests are alive with birdsong in these parts. Another reward is riding through what appeared to be deserted villages that are being rebuilt. Then came the downhill into Shumen – steep with hairpin bends and then The Transcontinental Shoumen Hotel at the bottom. We had managed the ride, felt justifiably tired but did it.
Yesterday was another long hard day of riding to Varna on the Black Sea. Pedalling uphill again through amazing countryside. Shepherds, cowherds and goatherds wave us on, one playing his flute to his sheep. We pass donkeys pulling carts laden with hay or produce and others with family or friends on their way to the fields or to the nearby village. All wave at us and cheer us on. A headwind and the optical illusion of what appeared to be a downhill and was in fact a long gradual uphill was exhausting. The reward was this seaside town of Varna. We are in a hotel room on the 14th floor overlooking the river estuary and the Black sea. Dinner last night was in a traditional Bulgarian restaurant frequented mainly by locals. A good choice away from the typical tourist haunts. We ended the evening at a cocktail bar where we continued to have a good time with friends till about 1a.m!
Standing on the balcony of our room we can see for miles around. The gulls screech overhead or land on our balcony and inquisitively gaze at us before gliding off again. Locals and visitors alike head for the beach where all the umbrellas seem to form one big canopy and the waft of sun cream hangs heavy in the air. We’re going to enjoy this rest day and wander down the pedestrian streets, eat ice cream and absorb the atmosphere and some sunshine on the sand – and of course a swim in the Black Sea. Tomorrow it’s back in the saddle to Aheloy/Aheloi (АХЕЛОЙ). A week today we arrive in Istanbul – I cannot believe how quickly the time has gone. So far this has proved to be a wonderful holiday – lots of exercise and sleep, healthy food and not a care in the world!