(142km’s 7hours riding time. Cumulative distance from Paris: 3907km’s 192hours)
The Bosphorus was suddenly in full view as we cycled down the road. This was the end of the ride, 3907km’s from Paris and now it was all over.
We left Saray and decided to have a leisurely cycle to our bush camp just outside of Tayakadin - a distance of 90kms. Our first stop was at a little restaurant. Most of us had Turkish tea and others had cold drinks. Something that has intrigued me in these parts is that it is the men who are socialising and drinking tea at these places. It is men who serve us, the women are scarce. As we approach our refreshment stops and dismount from our bikes the men look at us and not quite sure how to respond to these lycra clad, helmeted females and males. The tandem continues to add amusement to many a pedestrian. We have found the locals very friendly. The children have all made the effort to greet us in English. “Hullor” one hears them say while others will say “What is your name” or “how are you”. Many want to have their pictures taken and are happy to pose for one.
At our second refreshment stop the shop owner went out of his way to bring extra chairs for us and even gave us tea “on the house”.
We were told to be aware of the dogs roaming the streets of towns and villages of Romania. That turned out to be a damp squib but the dogs in Turkey are something else. There are so many dogs that roam the streets, lie in the road and follow one around. None have chased us or threatened us in any way. Many in our group have pepper spray or high frequency devices for which they have no real use now.
The bush camp venue, a picnic site, was in view now. I was dreading this night. It was our last night of the tour. Here we were pitching our tent under the trees of a picnic site. There were no ablution facilities. The toilets were appalling squat drops with insects crawling all over the walls. Our camp leaders hung a sheet of PVC between two trees and created 2 areas for showering. This shower was no luxury but it I felt refreshed after this interesting experience. The shower procedure was to fill my water bottle from a large saucepan of water and pouring it over myself. Second step was to soap myself all over and finally pouring another bottle of water over myself to rinse myself. Here I was standing on a piece of PVC with 3 walls of PVC and the wide open treed area in front of me, a fellow cyclist in the “cubicle” beside me. The saucepan of water which we shared was between our cubicles. All that encouraged me here was that I wouldn’t have to do this again and that it was a hot day!
Our ride to the finish on 20 July was only 51,2km’s. Again we took our time. It’s just as well this was no race. The number of obstacles in the road would have prevented anyone from achieving a good time. Obstacles ranged from badly rutted roads to horses standing in the road or goats being walked across the road by the goatherd and many others. Pleasant obstacles were the interesting sights and photo opportunities and rest stops along the way and of course the lunch truck each riding day. The lunch truck was an important milestone each day.
We cycled under large Roman aqueducts. These are very impressive structures that have survived all these years. After a steep climb and down the other side we finally could smell the finish line. The leaders of our trip treated us to a funfilled boat ride to our hotel. This was such a treat and spared us from cycling in the narrow, busy streets of this bustling city which is Istanbul. Drinks and snacks all around and lively local music set the scene for the finale. We waved to people at the various waterside restaurants on Bosphorus - a strategically important strait that separates Europe & Asia as well as the city of Istanbul, previously Constantinople and before that Byzantine. The water is indigo blue.
Once we disembarked it was a short walk, pushing our cycles, to the hotel.
The tour leaders organised a dinner for us at a quaint restaurant in town where we were treated to a delicious dinner and drinks and a slide show depicting memories of our cycle ride which Theresa had put together for us.
The taxi ride to this restaurant was something else. It was like a wild ride at an amusement park. The traffic at 22h00 was still bumper to bumper in the narrow streets. The taxi’s swerve from one lane to the other and drive at high speed. I was sitting in the middle in the back seat with Carl and a friend on either side of me. I felt as if I was in a traffic simulator machine! We got to the restaurant and back to the hotel safely.
There are so many memories from the last seven weeks. Carl and I have never in our married life spent so much time together. It has been wonderful. There were some wet and cold days, uncomfortable accommodation and not such nice evening meals but these seem to fade when I consider the other times. The coffee and pastry stops, the laughter when the ladies tried to “protect” each other in the bush stops! We have been exposed to so many sights, experiences and tastes. This trip has also been a huge challenge for me and I have enjoyed it immensely. Carl thought, and we had agreed, that I could ride in the vehicles if the riding got too much. He said that he would ride the tandem alone. Not even on the day of our crash did I feel the need to get into the vehicle. I rode EFI (every f---abulous inch!)
The tandem is now all boxed up, our bags are sorted and we’re thinking of our next step now. Carl and I fly to England on 23 July to new beginnings.
Our blog will continue with news of what we’re up to and where we are so continue to keep in touch!
Till next time..........
Monday, 21 July 2008
Friday, 18 July 2008
Varna to Saray
(348km’s 18 riding hours; cumulative total from Paris: 3765km’s 185hrs)
Fields of sunflowers, often as far as the eye can see on either side of the road appear to be standing and applauding us as we ride by. Their large heads surrounded by radiant petals swaying gently in the breeze while others hang their heads, heavily laden with seed.
We left Varna in convoy and headed for Aheloy 117km’s away. It turned into a very hot day. We visited Nesebar nearby. It is millennia old, having been submerged by the Black Sea on more than one occasion. There are remains of Roman walls and other structures but it has become a tourist trap of note with locals selling souvenirs, food, clothing and everything else in between. A good visit and respite from the heat.
Our accommodation was in a fairly new hotel with a swimming pool. Carl and I had an enormous apartment – all this for one night only. The evening turned into an impromptu party as a singer and pianist entertained us with various songs. We responded by dancing on the turf style carpet while others in our party took the mic and did impromptu karaoke to the amusement of the rest.
Malko Tarnovo was our next overnight stay. Initially we were told that some of us would be accommodated in the local hospital. They hire out their beds because they can’t fill them! As it turned out we all stayed in the hostel. The rooms were basic and mattresses very thin. I almost fell over backwards as I sat down on the bed. It was like sleeping in a hammock. The shower was a hand shower attached to a tap over the basin and the whole floor was the shower room – including the toilet! I could probably write a whole article on the toilets and shower facilities we have used on this trip! Not sure how entertaining that would be. We migrated up the road to a little restaurant with a swimming pool. That was very pleasant and inviting. Going to sleep was interesting. Dogs were barking loudly and one in particular kept on barking. Jos went downstairs and tried to quieten it by using Garis’s high pitched dog deterrent. All that did was awaken other sleeping dogs! A huge thunder storm awakened us all in the wee hours. The upside of that was that we were able to cycle in cooler weather the next day.
Aheloy is about 10km’s from the Turkish border - uphill all the way. Going through the border was a drawn out business. We had to queue at one window to buy the visa and then at the next window to have the visa stamped. Sounds like a simple procedure but believe me this was a test of one’s patience!
Our first stop in Turkey was a tiny village where we sampled Turkish delight, tea and their very strong coffee. The ride from the border to our overnight stop in Kirklareli and rest day hotel was a mere 40 km’s. There were some steep hills but of course with every uphill there is usually a downhill. This town embraced the idea of Orient Express riders staying in their town and went out of their way to make us feel welcome. The mayor and minister of sport and recreation hosted a dinner in our honour. We enjoyed a very pleasant evening with them. This is a town which clearly does not have many tourists. We were the centre of attraction as we walked around the busy streets. In these parts one sees the men sitting around in cafes and bars or on the streets while the women are usually with the children or doing the work. The market place was bustling with stallholders trying to draw your attention to their wares. Clothes, shoes, underwear, toys, kitchenware and much more were available to buy. The fruit and vegetables were fresh and plentiful, as were the various grains, chillies and so on. It’s been a while since I saw such a hive of activity. Communication has not been easy. Sign language somehow doesn’t work here but we get by. The people are friendly and fascinated by us – I think it is about how ridiculous we look in lycra! The women here are covered up from top to toe, although the younger women appear to be a little more westernised.
For a few days now there has been an unpleasant sound coming from my pedal axle. Carl decided on our rest day, together with our very able bike mechanic Olivier, to try and find out what the problem was. It turns out the bearing, although brand new when we left Paris, had worn out. Am I really pedalling that hard? The 2 men went off in search of a new bearing and after discovering that the only spares available were ones for bearings that Carl had last seen as a schoolboy, decided to leave the bearing till later. Carl had a deviation on the way back to the hotel. He visited a real old style barber and came back sporting a haircut and a shave instead. This is an experience I guess one needs in one’s lifetime – if you’re a man of course. Carl was treated to a neck and head massage, a haircut with precision and a close shave with a cut throat razor! Jos stood by and took photographs, which we’ll share when we get them from him, while the barber ordered tea all round. All this for a mere 10 Turkish lira. That is what I call a bargain and the barber did a jolly fine job – even if the chair had to be propped up to prevent it from falling over!
After a very pleasant ride we are now in Saray in a hotel on a busy road. It is hot. Our window is open and the traffic rushes by. I can hear someone wailing – calling all to prayer I think. After dinner tonight a group of us went in search of desert. We bought 2 boxes of freshly made Baklava and went and sat in a local park, ordered tea and cold drinks and indulged ourselves.
It is 2 days to go and this ride will be over. I am looking forward to getting to Istanbul but more on that later..........Chat soon
Fields of sunflowers, often as far as the eye can see on either side of the road appear to be standing and applauding us as we ride by. Their large heads surrounded by radiant petals swaying gently in the breeze while others hang their heads, heavily laden with seed.
We left Varna in convoy and headed for Aheloy 117km’s away. It turned into a very hot day. We visited Nesebar nearby. It is millennia old, having been submerged by the Black Sea on more than one occasion. There are remains of Roman walls and other structures but it has become a tourist trap of note with locals selling souvenirs, food, clothing and everything else in between. A good visit and respite from the heat.
Our accommodation was in a fairly new hotel with a swimming pool. Carl and I had an enormous apartment – all this for one night only. The evening turned into an impromptu party as a singer and pianist entertained us with various songs. We responded by dancing on the turf style carpet while others in our party took the mic and did impromptu karaoke to the amusement of the rest.
Malko Tarnovo was our next overnight stay. Initially we were told that some of us would be accommodated in the local hospital. They hire out their beds because they can’t fill them! As it turned out we all stayed in the hostel. The rooms were basic and mattresses very thin. I almost fell over backwards as I sat down on the bed. It was like sleeping in a hammock. The shower was a hand shower attached to a tap over the basin and the whole floor was the shower room – including the toilet! I could probably write a whole article on the toilets and shower facilities we have used on this trip! Not sure how entertaining that would be. We migrated up the road to a little restaurant with a swimming pool. That was very pleasant and inviting. Going to sleep was interesting. Dogs were barking loudly and one in particular kept on barking. Jos went downstairs and tried to quieten it by using Garis’s high pitched dog deterrent. All that did was awaken other sleeping dogs! A huge thunder storm awakened us all in the wee hours. The upside of that was that we were able to cycle in cooler weather the next day.
Aheloy is about 10km’s from the Turkish border - uphill all the way. Going through the border was a drawn out business. We had to queue at one window to buy the visa and then at the next window to have the visa stamped. Sounds like a simple procedure but believe me this was a test of one’s patience!
Our first stop in Turkey was a tiny village where we sampled Turkish delight, tea and their very strong coffee. The ride from the border to our overnight stop in Kirklareli and rest day hotel was a mere 40 km’s. There were some steep hills but of course with every uphill there is usually a downhill. This town embraced the idea of Orient Express riders staying in their town and went out of their way to make us feel welcome. The mayor and minister of sport and recreation hosted a dinner in our honour. We enjoyed a very pleasant evening with them. This is a town which clearly does not have many tourists. We were the centre of attraction as we walked around the busy streets. In these parts one sees the men sitting around in cafes and bars or on the streets while the women are usually with the children or doing the work. The market place was bustling with stallholders trying to draw your attention to their wares. Clothes, shoes, underwear, toys, kitchenware and much more were available to buy. The fruit and vegetables were fresh and plentiful, as were the various grains, chillies and so on. It’s been a while since I saw such a hive of activity. Communication has not been easy. Sign language somehow doesn’t work here but we get by. The people are friendly and fascinated by us – I think it is about how ridiculous we look in lycra! The women here are covered up from top to toe, although the younger women appear to be a little more westernised.
For a few days now there has been an unpleasant sound coming from my pedal axle. Carl decided on our rest day, together with our very able bike mechanic Olivier, to try and find out what the problem was. It turns out the bearing, although brand new when we left Paris, had worn out. Am I really pedalling that hard? The 2 men went off in search of a new bearing and after discovering that the only spares available were ones for bearings that Carl had last seen as a schoolboy, decided to leave the bearing till later. Carl had a deviation on the way back to the hotel. He visited a real old style barber and came back sporting a haircut and a shave instead. This is an experience I guess one needs in one’s lifetime – if you’re a man of course. Carl was treated to a neck and head massage, a haircut with precision and a close shave with a cut throat razor! Jos stood by and took photographs, which we’ll share when we get them from him, while the barber ordered tea all round. All this for a mere 10 Turkish lira. That is what I call a bargain and the barber did a jolly fine job – even if the chair had to be propped up to prevent it from falling over!
After a very pleasant ride we are now in Saray in a hotel on a busy road. It is hot. Our window is open and the traffic rushes by. I can hear someone wailing – calling all to prayer I think. After dinner tonight a group of us went in search of desert. We bought 2 boxes of freshly made Baklava and went and sat in a local park, ordered tea and cold drinks and indulged ourselves.
It is 2 days to go and this ride will be over. I am looking forward to getting to Istanbul but more on that later..........Chat soon
Sunday, 13 July 2008
Baile Herculane (Romania) to Varna (Bulgaria)
(Distance 784km’s; 38 hrs riding time - Cumulative from Paris 3417km’s; 167 hours)
The first part of the ride from Baile Herculane was very scenic, but with the good comes the challenge – it was steep! We climbed and climbed and climbed. We had glimpses of a river gently meandering down – as we went up. Most of the climb was shaded by trees which brought welcome relief from the heat. Our lunch stop was at the bottom of a steep downhill in a very windy spot. After lunch we rode through villages where locals stopped and watched us go by – some puzzled by this invasion of cyclists through their village and others waving us on. The tandem does turn heads and chuckles as we pass by, often too late for a second glance.
There are many stray dogs in Romania. Many of us armed ourselves with various dog repelling systems from high frequency whistles and pepper spray to sticks or stones. Most dogs are too lazy and disinterested in reacting to the cycles while those who are a little more energetic are disappointed. Before they have managed to get the bark out we are long past. The dogs that try and give chase give up very quickly when they realise that the competition is too fierce. Our stick is more like a police truncheon which Carl claims is better than any spray – which would probably blow all over me at speed and is taped to the cross bar with insulation tape. The dog would have to be really vicious to prompt Carl to use it. So far intimidation – steering directly at the dog at speed - has served us well. Much better than having to manoeuvre the tandem at speed, remove the truncheon and whack the dog! The pepper spray approach baffles me. How does one aim the spray at a barking/ chasing dog in the wind? Imagine if there was more than one dog, which one does one take aim at first? Oh the lengths we go to with our theories of protection. So far there have been no major attacks to report. One cyclist, who shall remain nameless, tried to test the pepper spray, messed some on his hand, managed to wipe his mouth after the test and – suffered for the rest of the day!
We stayed in a hotel in Targu Jiu instead of a campsite. This was interesting and worth the experience. We were treated to pizza and salad for dinner. Breakfasts in these places take some getting used to. Ham slices are painstakingly cut in four and arranged on a plate along with cheese slices also neatly arranged. All looks good but enough to get one over the hills and to the lunch stop. Cooked breakfasts with toast or pastries stayed behind in Western Europe!
Ramnicu Valcea was our next overnight stop. In an attempt to stay off the busy roads, the organisers proposed some back roads which were horrendous. The numerous uphills had to be struggled up in our lowest gear and because the surface was so bad we could go no faster than 10 – 15km’s on the downhills, burning brake blocks and shaking both bike and rider to pieces. In Carl’s view this is where mountain bikes with rear suspension were required. Our average speed often seems quite low - mainly because of the terrible road surfaces which often make speed downright dangerous. It’s also amazing how much rolling resistance gets generated from these poor surfaces. One has to pedal hard on a level road!
On the way to our camping spot at Orange Pensionne we passed the local water world – wall to wall in bodies of all shapes and sizes. This was a Sunday and from all accounts and the sheer numbers, this was obviously the place to be. One fellow cyclist commented that you could drown there and it would take a week before you’re found! About a half dozen young pear trees provided very little shade and the rest of us had to pitch tents in the heat. This Pensionne is adjacent to the local zoo. The night time sounds here were interesting. We had lions roaring into the night and dogs barking from all directions. This all seemed like a well rehearsed event. We awoke to the roar of lion and birdsong.
It’s amazing how some things amuse us. The showers in the hotels or pensions we’ve stayed in don’t have shower doors. This makes for an interesting shower. Often the hand held shower is attached to a mixer tap too which is even more interesting. I have on occasion found it easier to sit on the shower floor under the tap in an attempt not to flood the whole bathroom floor.
The ride to Dragondana will be remembered by all of us for a very long time. It was Monday morning and we had no option but to ride on the main road which had no shoulder. Romanian drivers beat South African taxi drivers hands down. I have never been so scared in my life with 50 ton trucks flying past us at 120km’s per hour with barely inches to spare. Oncoming traffic passes each other not one, but two at a time, forcing us off the road on more than one occasion. We were really pleased that we fitted the tandem with broader wheels, enabling us to make the transition from bitumen to rutted road verge with relative ease – except of course when the road verge was replaced by a meter deep concrete channel! We eventually arrived at overnight stop where Carl attached a piece of plastic tubing to the bike carrier which now sticks out 30cm’s into the road resplendent with dozens of brightly coloured luminous ribbon attached.
The Motel we stayed at is 7km’s off the road. How it was found is a mystery. We were meant to camp there. When the leaders arrived they were shown the car park which the owner had graciously set aside for our camping – a hard concrete in the boiling sun! The lawned area adjacent to the car park was definitely not available for camping! She eventually allowed us to “camp” in the foyer and lounge area of the motel – the thoroughfare to the public toilets and where guests would normally sit on couches and relax! Carl and I found a spot behind a couch, while others slept on the couches. Two or three cyclists chose to pitch their tents inside, leaving off the flysheet, in an attempt to be protected from mozzies – that evening there were none – not even they could endure the smell coming from the toilets! Outside was on a narrow, busy road with a huge volume of very big trucks that rumbled up and down. In Carl’s view the only redeeming feature of the place where the pretty mini-skirted staff- he got some lovely pics of two of them trying to carry tables across the busy road.
We were treated like VIP’s into Bucharest. A lone traffic officer on his motorbike escorted us to our hotel in downtown Bucharest – opposite the Palatul Parlament (The Palace of the Parliament). The escorted convoy was necessary because of traffic and almost no regard for cyclists. The traffic officer so enjoyed this task and thought we were so amazing that he offered to escort us out of Bucharest again! Bystanders stopped and stared while others applauded. There were some motorists who were not very impressed with us as they were made to wait at intersections as we were given right of way. One lady who tried to defy the order to stop ended up losing her bumper as she collided into the back of the car in front of her. She will always remember us!
Carl and I joined the group for a tour around the Palace which Cher.......... had built – the world’s second largest building after the Pentagon. This man spared no cost at a time when his country was bankrupt. He even tried to emulate the Champs Elysees except it had to be wider. It is astounding the way he went about his business. His life was cut short so was never able to enjoy this monstrosity and the extravagance. The windows are draped with silk curtains. Opulence in the extreme.
We left Bucharest and headed for the Bulgarian border – our seventh country on this trip. Cyrillic is foreign to all of us so navigation is going to be a challenge. (For Bulgaria read – БъЛГАРИЯ)!!
Our first overnight stop in Bulgaria was Ruse (РУСЕ). There was one problem. The accommodation had not been finalised. One of the leaders had rushed off ahead to go scouting for a place for us to stay. Notwithstanding that this trip was booked many months ago; it’s astounding that all of a sudden accommodation was uncertain. Anyhow a motel was found and all seemed good until the owner arrived and advised that he was expecting construction workers to have a party there that evening, and that their alcohol induced behaviour precluded our staying there. We ended up having to ride another 15 km’s or so to a spot beside the road – a picnic spot with ’squat’ toilets only! Many of us “showered” in spring water from a pipe about 15cm’s above the ground – a refreshing rinse off. This spot was idyllic - beside a lake and under beautiful trees. A bonus was the family run restaurant across the lake where we had drinks and delicious pancakes and ice cream served to us by the beautiful daughter of the owners. The owner made us feel very welcome - communicated through his daughter who had to interpret everything for him.
The people of Bulgaria are very different to those of Romania and even Hungary. With very few exceptions they are friendly and always try and help – in spite of enormous language and cultural barriers. The country also seems far more organised and while one still has the traditional shepherds and donkey carts, much of the agriculture is mechanised. The road surfaces are better and the drivers more considerate. Bulgaria is a lovely country and we’ll be back here again.
Ruse to Shumen/Sumen (ШУМЕН) was a long hard 137km’s ride. This would rank up there with our ride to Xertigny in France – very hard. We climbed and climbed – long and steep. It was hot but the shade from the forest brought welcome relief. Carl is so good at pacing us and encouraging me. We take our time up these very steep climbs – just us and the scenery around us. Now and again on the downs we catch up with Jos or one of the other front riders. The things that keep me going are that there must be a downhill somewhere after an uphill climb and also I remember that I managed to get up Alpe d’Huez by myself on a single at my pace and did it! The reward at the end of the longest climb of the day was riding through the cool forest and being welcomed by the birds singing in the trees. The forests are alive with birdsong in these parts. Another reward is riding through what appeared to be deserted villages that are being rebuilt. Then came the downhill into Shumen – steep with hairpin bends and then The Transcontinental Shoumen Hotel at the bottom. We had managed the ride, felt justifiably tired but did it.
Yesterday was another long hard day of riding to Varna on the Black Sea. Pedalling uphill again through amazing countryside. Shepherds, cowherds and goatherds wave us on, one playing his flute to his sheep. We pass donkeys pulling carts laden with hay or produce and others with family or friends on their way to the fields or to the nearby village. All wave at us and cheer us on. A headwind and the optical illusion of what appeared to be a downhill and was in fact a long gradual uphill was exhausting. The reward was this seaside town of Varna. We are in a hotel room on the 14th floor overlooking the river estuary and the Black sea. Dinner last night was in a traditional Bulgarian restaurant frequented mainly by locals. A good choice away from the typical tourist haunts. We ended the evening at a cocktail bar where we continued to have a good time with friends till about 1a.m!
Standing on the balcony of our room we can see for miles around. The gulls screech overhead or land on our balcony and inquisitively gaze at us before gliding off again. Locals and visitors alike head for the beach where all the umbrellas seem to form one big canopy and the waft of sun cream hangs heavy in the air. We’re going to enjoy this rest day and wander down the pedestrian streets, eat ice cream and absorb the atmosphere and some sunshine on the sand – and of course a swim in the Black Sea. Tomorrow it’s back in the saddle to Aheloy/Aheloi (АХЕЛОЙ). A week today we arrive in Istanbul – I cannot believe how quickly the time has gone. So far this has proved to be a wonderful holiday – lots of exercise and sleep, healthy food and not a care in the world!
The first part of the ride from Baile Herculane was very scenic, but with the good comes the challenge – it was steep! We climbed and climbed and climbed. We had glimpses of a river gently meandering down – as we went up. Most of the climb was shaded by trees which brought welcome relief from the heat. Our lunch stop was at the bottom of a steep downhill in a very windy spot. After lunch we rode through villages where locals stopped and watched us go by – some puzzled by this invasion of cyclists through their village and others waving us on. The tandem does turn heads and chuckles as we pass by, often too late for a second glance.
There are many stray dogs in Romania. Many of us armed ourselves with various dog repelling systems from high frequency whistles and pepper spray to sticks or stones. Most dogs are too lazy and disinterested in reacting to the cycles while those who are a little more energetic are disappointed. Before they have managed to get the bark out we are long past. The dogs that try and give chase give up very quickly when they realise that the competition is too fierce. Our stick is more like a police truncheon which Carl claims is better than any spray – which would probably blow all over me at speed and is taped to the cross bar with insulation tape. The dog would have to be really vicious to prompt Carl to use it. So far intimidation – steering directly at the dog at speed - has served us well. Much better than having to manoeuvre the tandem at speed, remove the truncheon and whack the dog! The pepper spray approach baffles me. How does one aim the spray at a barking/ chasing dog in the wind? Imagine if there was more than one dog, which one does one take aim at first? Oh the lengths we go to with our theories of protection. So far there have been no major attacks to report. One cyclist, who shall remain nameless, tried to test the pepper spray, messed some on his hand, managed to wipe his mouth after the test and – suffered for the rest of the day!
We stayed in a hotel in Targu Jiu instead of a campsite. This was interesting and worth the experience. We were treated to pizza and salad for dinner. Breakfasts in these places take some getting used to. Ham slices are painstakingly cut in four and arranged on a plate along with cheese slices also neatly arranged. All looks good but enough to get one over the hills and to the lunch stop. Cooked breakfasts with toast or pastries stayed behind in Western Europe!
Ramnicu Valcea was our next overnight stop. In an attempt to stay off the busy roads, the organisers proposed some back roads which were horrendous. The numerous uphills had to be struggled up in our lowest gear and because the surface was so bad we could go no faster than 10 – 15km’s on the downhills, burning brake blocks and shaking both bike and rider to pieces. In Carl’s view this is where mountain bikes with rear suspension were required. Our average speed often seems quite low - mainly because of the terrible road surfaces which often make speed downright dangerous. It’s also amazing how much rolling resistance gets generated from these poor surfaces. One has to pedal hard on a level road!
On the way to our camping spot at Orange Pensionne we passed the local water world – wall to wall in bodies of all shapes and sizes. This was a Sunday and from all accounts and the sheer numbers, this was obviously the place to be. One fellow cyclist commented that you could drown there and it would take a week before you’re found! About a half dozen young pear trees provided very little shade and the rest of us had to pitch tents in the heat. This Pensionne is adjacent to the local zoo. The night time sounds here were interesting. We had lions roaring into the night and dogs barking from all directions. This all seemed like a well rehearsed event. We awoke to the roar of lion and birdsong.
It’s amazing how some things amuse us. The showers in the hotels or pensions we’ve stayed in don’t have shower doors. This makes for an interesting shower. Often the hand held shower is attached to a mixer tap too which is even more interesting. I have on occasion found it easier to sit on the shower floor under the tap in an attempt not to flood the whole bathroom floor.
The ride to Dragondana will be remembered by all of us for a very long time. It was Monday morning and we had no option but to ride on the main road which had no shoulder. Romanian drivers beat South African taxi drivers hands down. I have never been so scared in my life with 50 ton trucks flying past us at 120km’s per hour with barely inches to spare. Oncoming traffic passes each other not one, but two at a time, forcing us off the road on more than one occasion. We were really pleased that we fitted the tandem with broader wheels, enabling us to make the transition from bitumen to rutted road verge with relative ease – except of course when the road verge was replaced by a meter deep concrete channel! We eventually arrived at overnight stop where Carl attached a piece of plastic tubing to the bike carrier which now sticks out 30cm’s into the road resplendent with dozens of brightly coloured luminous ribbon attached.
The Motel we stayed at is 7km’s off the road. How it was found is a mystery. We were meant to camp there. When the leaders arrived they were shown the car park which the owner had graciously set aside for our camping – a hard concrete in the boiling sun! The lawned area adjacent to the car park was definitely not available for camping! She eventually allowed us to “camp” in the foyer and lounge area of the motel – the thoroughfare to the public toilets and where guests would normally sit on couches and relax! Carl and I found a spot behind a couch, while others slept on the couches. Two or three cyclists chose to pitch their tents inside, leaving off the flysheet, in an attempt to be protected from mozzies – that evening there were none – not even they could endure the smell coming from the toilets! Outside was on a narrow, busy road with a huge volume of very big trucks that rumbled up and down. In Carl’s view the only redeeming feature of the place where the pretty mini-skirted staff- he got some lovely pics of two of them trying to carry tables across the busy road.
We were treated like VIP’s into Bucharest. A lone traffic officer on his motorbike escorted us to our hotel in downtown Bucharest – opposite the Palatul Parlament (The Palace of the Parliament). The escorted convoy was necessary because of traffic and almost no regard for cyclists. The traffic officer so enjoyed this task and thought we were so amazing that he offered to escort us out of Bucharest again! Bystanders stopped and stared while others applauded. There were some motorists who were not very impressed with us as they were made to wait at intersections as we were given right of way. One lady who tried to defy the order to stop ended up losing her bumper as she collided into the back of the car in front of her. She will always remember us!
Carl and I joined the group for a tour around the Palace which Cher.......... had built – the world’s second largest building after the Pentagon. This man spared no cost at a time when his country was bankrupt. He even tried to emulate the Champs Elysees except it had to be wider. It is astounding the way he went about his business. His life was cut short so was never able to enjoy this monstrosity and the extravagance. The windows are draped with silk curtains. Opulence in the extreme.
We left Bucharest and headed for the Bulgarian border – our seventh country on this trip. Cyrillic is foreign to all of us so navigation is going to be a challenge. (For Bulgaria read – БъЛГАРИЯ)!!
Our first overnight stop in Bulgaria was Ruse (РУСЕ). There was one problem. The accommodation had not been finalised. One of the leaders had rushed off ahead to go scouting for a place for us to stay. Notwithstanding that this trip was booked many months ago; it’s astounding that all of a sudden accommodation was uncertain. Anyhow a motel was found and all seemed good until the owner arrived and advised that he was expecting construction workers to have a party there that evening, and that their alcohol induced behaviour precluded our staying there. We ended up having to ride another 15 km’s or so to a spot beside the road – a picnic spot with ’squat’ toilets only! Many of us “showered” in spring water from a pipe about 15cm’s above the ground – a refreshing rinse off. This spot was idyllic - beside a lake and under beautiful trees. A bonus was the family run restaurant across the lake where we had drinks and delicious pancakes and ice cream served to us by the beautiful daughter of the owners. The owner made us feel very welcome - communicated through his daughter who had to interpret everything for him.
The people of Bulgaria are very different to those of Romania and even Hungary. With very few exceptions they are friendly and always try and help – in spite of enormous language and cultural barriers. The country also seems far more organised and while one still has the traditional shepherds and donkey carts, much of the agriculture is mechanised. The road surfaces are better and the drivers more considerate. Bulgaria is a lovely country and we’ll be back here again.
Ruse to Shumen/Sumen (ШУМЕН) was a long hard 137km’s ride. This would rank up there with our ride to Xertigny in France – very hard. We climbed and climbed – long and steep. It was hot but the shade from the forest brought welcome relief. Carl is so good at pacing us and encouraging me. We take our time up these very steep climbs – just us and the scenery around us. Now and again on the downs we catch up with Jos or one of the other front riders. The things that keep me going are that there must be a downhill somewhere after an uphill climb and also I remember that I managed to get up Alpe d’Huez by myself on a single at my pace and did it! The reward at the end of the longest climb of the day was riding through the cool forest and being welcomed by the birds singing in the trees. The forests are alive with birdsong in these parts. Another reward is riding through what appeared to be deserted villages that are being rebuilt. Then came the downhill into Shumen – steep with hairpin bends and then The Transcontinental Shoumen Hotel at the bottom. We had managed the ride, felt justifiably tired but did it.
Yesterday was another long hard day of riding to Varna on the Black Sea. Pedalling uphill again through amazing countryside. Shepherds, cowherds and goatherds wave us on, one playing his flute to his sheep. We pass donkeys pulling carts laden with hay or produce and others with family or friends on their way to the fields or to the nearby village. All wave at us and cheer us on. A headwind and the optical illusion of what appeared to be a downhill and was in fact a long gradual uphill was exhausting. The reward was this seaside town of Varna. We are in a hotel room on the 14th floor overlooking the river estuary and the Black sea. Dinner last night was in a traditional Bulgarian restaurant frequented mainly by locals. A good choice away from the typical tourist haunts. We ended the evening at a cocktail bar where we continued to have a good time with friends till about 1a.m!
Standing on the balcony of our room we can see for miles around. The gulls screech overhead or land on our balcony and inquisitively gaze at us before gliding off again. Locals and visitors alike head for the beach where all the umbrellas seem to form one big canopy and the waft of sun cream hangs heavy in the air. We’re going to enjoy this rest day and wander down the pedestrian streets, eat ice cream and absorb the atmosphere and some sunshine on the sand – and of course a swim in the Black Sea. Tomorrow it’s back in the saddle to Aheloy/Aheloi (АХЕЛОЙ). A week today we arrive in Istanbul – I cannot believe how quickly the time has gone. So far this has proved to be a wonderful holiday – lots of exercise and sleep, healthy food and not a care in the world!
Friday, 4 July 2008
Timisoara to Baile Herculane
(227km’s, 11hrs)
(Cumulative from Paris: 2633km’s; 129hrs in the saddle)
2 July 2008
We left Timisoara in convoy until we were out of the busy part of the city and onto the open road. This open road was no doddle. It was narrow and very busy with big tankers and horse and trailer rigs, both the original with a real horse and the more modern motorised version and of course buses and cars. These came whizzing by at high speed. Not only were we trying to be aware of what was coming from behind but also cars overtaking from the front. The drivers have no regard for cyclists here. We were literally pushed off the road at one point. The roads have also deteriorated. Where are the peaceful, traffic free, well paved cycle paths we so enjoyed? Comfort stops are few and far between and when we do find one, we agree that the bush is more appealing!
Our children have been so encouraging regarding this expedition. Shelley says she thinks we’re amazing and is so proud of us and Richard thinks we rock! He says he is so proud of his mother cycling all this way and knows of no other mother who has done what I am doing. He says he tells everyone. It’s fantastic knowing that Shel and Rich are proud of us!
Our wounds are getting better each day. The nurse is checking the wound on Carl’s arm daily and changing the dressing. I no longer need to keep mine covered.
As we cycled through some of the villages along the way, local workers stop what they are doing when they see us and watch us ride past. I wonder what they must be thinking. Not only were their groups of locals – both young and not so young, but also groups of ducks, geese and hens roaming around.
We reached our lunch spot at about 10h30 this morning. The lunch truck was parked in a clearing on the edge of a forest. What a spread was awaiting us! Fresh cheese rolls, an assortment of cold meat (the salami type) lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber and pickles. The fruit table was groaning with the assortment: bananas, apples, and mango. What a treat.
Our hotel in this town – Resita – is a 2 star. I am not sure what the criteria are for these stars because that seems far too many stars for what it is. The spring on the lift door is very tired and one can’t help wondering if there is still anyone around who knows how to service the lift. The rooms are comfortable and very basic – and are en suite! We even have a balcony which overlooks a little river and the railway line. The noisy train glides along the tracks quite frequently and seems to use the hotel as the cue to sound the horn. The water in the taps is good for washing but nothing more. It was off to the supermarket to stock up with a 6 litre bottle of water. This is probably going to be part of our routine from now until the end of the trip. This hotel could easily have the setting for a movie filled with suspense, betrayal and intrigue! I’m glad we had this experience.
I am told the mercury rose to 38°C today. Our cycle gear which we hung out on the balcony on an improvised line made from the shoulder straps of our barrel bags is already dry – and that is in the shade! It has been great to sit on our beds and relax or doze off until our rider briefing , dinner and a stroll around the town – still light at 10 pm.
Today we cycled 99km’s.
3 July 2008
This morning our route started off with a 20km climb out of Rosita. We managed to leave the hotel at 06h50 to avoid heat and traffic. The climbs were long and hard but uneventful and we arrived at our lunch stop at about 10h00. Delicious guacamole and rolls with salad and lots of fruit was all spread out for us. We tucked in and had our fill and were on the road again. The road surface deteriorated substantially and there were major road works going on all along the way. Riding through the rural villages one sees families working away in fields of hay or vegetables. Very primitive methods seem to be used. The maize looks healthy and strong as do the endless fields of various vegetables. Many locals make use of bicycles to get around or a horse and trailer. The trailer is often piled high with hay or transporting the family to or from the field. The “drivers” are often really old women who have probably done this for the last 60 years or so. All these old people would have lived through the communist area which Romania was a part of until about 20 or so years ago. For many nothing much seems to have changed. We notice many locals have benches outside their homes on the sidewalk – they don’t have patios or verandas as we know – and sit on the bench watching passersby. We are greeted and cheered on as we pass by, providing some curious stares when they realise there is more than one person on this bicycle!
Today was long and hard for us – 128km’s of lots of hills and rutted roads. Thankfully leaving early saved us from most of the heat of the day. Our hotel is in a spa town. We’re in a 4* hotel in a lush setting at the end of the town. There is a holiday feel about this village which has thermal baths and more. We’ll be languishing in one tomorrow on our day off. This day off, even though we’ve only had 2 days riding since the last day off, is going to be good. My body aches after all the climbing and the heat today. I guess that will be the order of the day until we reach Istanbul in 17 days time. How this trip has flown.
Walking through the town one passes building which would have been full of grandeur in years gone by. Princes, Presidents and other important people would have enjoyed this opulence. The history of this town goes back to the Romans and even to Alexander the Great ! They are now deserted and have been left to deteriorate. Perhaps someone who has nothing else to do will snap one up and restore it to its former glory and make some money out of it. I can’t help feeling that this place is a secret waiting to be discovered.
Dinner this evening was shared with Jurg, Terry, Jim and Jaco. The menu offered chicken, chicken and more chicken. We ordered chicken with fries and salad and a sauce. This sauce was a garlic one which came in a cup. There was enough garlic in the sauce to protect us from Dracula who came from nearby Transylvania. Goodnight.
Tuesday, 1 July 2008
Budapest to Timisoara
(335km's, 14 hours; cumulative distance from Paris: 2406km's, 118 hours)
We had an interesting time in Budapest. Carl and I found a lovely restaurant in one of the many pedestrian squares and enjoyed a delicious meal. Carl enjoyed a Slovakian Gnocchi dish with ewe cheese that came with a complimentary Slovakian beer. I had a Hungarian dish of chicken with a paprika sauce and both were yummy. No beer for me though! J
Carl and I took a bus tour around Budapest. We were able to escape the heat and learn and see more about Buda and Pest – it stormed during this bus tour but that didn’t detract from a good experience. A visit to the Photographic Exhibition called Soul and Body was well worth the effort.
In the evening we went to a restaurant which I had seen the night before. A trio consisting of a double bass player, a violinist and a guitarist were playing to the diners at the pavement cafe. They thought playing for me was also a good idea. How beautiful were the tunes they played – I requested the Argentine Tango piece from Scent of a Woman and New York New York. The memory lingers – assisted by their CD that Carl bought for me.
Now a little bit about our daily routine.
It is very hot now and we try and leave as early as we can to escape the heat of the day. To achieve this we are now served breakfast at 7. This usually consists of muesli – a bit of a jungle mix with an assortment of nuts, seeds, grains, and various types of muesli, cornflakes and more. Occasionally there is a choice of porridge on some days and boiled eggs and hectic slices of bacon on others. Other times there is yoghurt too. There is always an endless supply of bread and jam, peanut butter and endless jars of Nutella. The latter is also available at lunch time. Breakfast happens of course once we’ve taken down our tent and packed up. We pitch our tent at every campsite and this is usually 2 or 3 days in a row following which we are in a hotel for 2 nights. That pattern changes now that we’re in Eastern Europe where we are mostly in hotels - campsites are apparently not that wonderful.
The vans take our bags for us. We are allowed 2 bags each on the trip, the 70litre size barrel bag. One bag is the daily bag which has the tent and other camping gear, the riding gear and civvies to wear at camp when the ride is done and of course the sponge bag and quick drying towel. (The towel might be quick drying but it leaves me damp!) The other bag is kept in the van and we only have access to it on our rest days.
We begin our ride feeling refreshed and ready for the day ahead. Distances vary from 80 or so kilometers to 130 or so kilometers per day. The terrain varies too. The last 2 days has been very flat and very hot. The lunch van usually meets us at about 50 to 60 km’s into the ride. The van is parked in a suitable clearing with shade; tables are set out, a hand wash container and drinking water. Lunch will be rolls or bread and tomatoes, cheese and some type of meat and fruit and of course the Nutella, peanut butter and jam. Lunch is not prescribed by time but by speed and distance. Lunch could be as early as 10h00! Once lunch is complete we’re on the road again. Often we stop along the way if we find an inviting drinks spot. We’ll have a little reprieve over an ice-cream or a drink.
Then it’s the final kilometers into camp. Once a suitable spot has been located we pitch our tent, pump up the luxury 8inch air mattress, and cover that with the fitted sheet and then the down duvet and pillows (camp pillows). It is so hot now that we sleep on top of the duvet. Carl and I enjoy a good, comfortable night’s sleep. Then it’s off to shower and freshen up, enjoy a snack or a trip into the nearby town if there is one or simply have a nap. Some of the campsites have pools – most of these have had a fee attached to them!
Evening meals are served after a rider briefing. Supper consists of some form of pasta and salad or veggies. We’ve had grilled pork chops and on another occasion grilled turkey breast fillets, sausage etc. Jaco from Malmesbury in the Cape has on occasion jumped to the rescue and is the able cook for the barbecued meats – and a jolly good job he does too.
Bedtime has been in daylight because the sun sets so late, however as we travel further east this is changing. Our clocks changed yesterday as we entered Romania, so we lost an hour and will be going to sleep at 21h30 in the light again.
We had a “talent show” in camp a couple of nights ago. Inadvertently Carl, our tandem “Bluebelle” and I provided humorous topics for fellow cyclists. The photographs on our photo link show Win and Dan as Carl and Rita singing “Daisy Daisy” and Jos and Manon being Carl and Rita. Manon was very accurate in her imitation of me putting on lipstick (lip ice) on the back of the tandem and taking photographs as we ride. They did a fine job. Both acts were very amusing!
I still wonder why I am doing this trip and can’t believe that I have managed to get this far. It seemed like a bridge too far when we first began, but here we are having completed some 2400 kilometers of cycling and still going strong. Carl and I took a little tumble yesterday about 15 km’s from the hotel. The sides of the road are white gravel and in the glare Carl did not see that where the road ended and the gravel began was quite a deep rut. The wheel got stuck and we went for a slide on loose gravel. All this so we could sit in the shade to get out of the heat! Jos was on our wheel at the time, watched all this happen and promptly came to our rescue. Alan, also from South Africa, arrived soon after. Jos poured water all down my leg and arm to clean off the blood and grit and check the injuries. Carl put antiseptic cream on and then Jos helped clean Carl’s arm. Many fellow cyclists stopped to assist and encourage us. This is what this ride is all about. We were truly cared for. After drinking the cold water which Alan bought for us, Carl and I set off once more on Bluebelle and rode the last 15 kilometers into Timisoara. Amandine, the tour nursing sister did a splendid job checking our wounds, cleaning them properly and dressing them. The photograph shows this. After a good sleep Carl and I joined some friends for dinner in one of the many beautiful squares in this amazing town. We are both ready for the ride tomorrow after a very relaxing rest day. The mountains of Romania await us!
Friday, 27 June 2008
Regensburg to Budapest
(Distance 840kms’s Cycling 38 hours)
We are in Budapest, Hungary for our rest day. We are now over half way having cycled 2071km’s and sat in the saddle for an incredible 104 hours! I am not sure how this has happened but my bum is holding out and my legs feel strong. The saddle feels strangely comfortable these days – perhaps it’s a permanently numb bum or the pleasant scenery makes this all worthwhile.
Our cycling days have been fairly laid back as we have moved at a leisurely pace down the cycle way along the Danube heading East. The campsites in Germany were very pleasant, particularly the final one in Passau. St Stephens’s cathedral in Passau boasts the biggest organ in the world with 18000 organ pipes from 6mm diameter to colossal monsters. We stayed on a little later the next day to listen to an organ recital at noon -well worth the stay. Leaving Germany and entering Austria was a non event. We did not even know that we had left Germany!
Vienna was abuzz with Euro soccer mania. The quarter final between Holland and Russia was played in Basel and screened at various points on big screens around Vienna. Fans with painted faces and draped with their country’s flag showed their support in anticipation of the game between Russia and Holland. If yours was not one of those countries then you chose one for the moment. Russia won. This was on Saturday night. Sunday was the next big match which was played in Vienna. Spain and Italy were the countries who were going to battle it out. We began our Sunday morning by going along to St Stephens in the centre of Vienna to the 10h15 mass. A group of us went along to hear the organ and the choir. The soccer supporters meanwhile began their revelling from about midday in the pedestrian malls of downtown Vienna. The fun and frivolity built up gradually with Spain certainly making the loudest noise and showing the greatest support. Numbers swelled and the singing and joyous anticipation grew in volume. The temperature in Vienna that day was also high – 38°C. While all this celebration went on Carl went off to visit 2 Art museums and I went off to the Clock Museum. I almost overheated getting there. I saw a mantle clock dating back to about 1761 that was still ticking away merrily and even chimed on time!
By the way Spain beat Italy that night after extra time and a penalty shootout.
With our crossing into Slovakia, Carl and I moved into unchartered territory. Bratislava, the capital was so different to what we have been used to. Carl and the other fellows on the tour had eyes on stalks watching the tall beautiful Eastern European girls walking around the cobbled streets and sidewalks with elegant heels and sun dresses - beautifully groomed and invariably sexy. I am amazed at the stylish shoes these women wear. Where do they find them?
The currency here is also something to get used to. So many zeros! Our accommodation in Budapest was on a Boat in the Danube. Very special and very comfortable. There are many “Botels’s” along the Danube.
We went from the sublime to the ridiculous. The campsite in Gyor was reasonable but the ablution facilities were dismal! Cracked tiles and holes in the floor are acceptable if the place is kept clean. I wondered if I was any cleaner when I left there but I guess I must have been because hot and cold water came out of the pipe when the taps were turned on, but were the taps clean? Thankfully that was only one night. We left Gyor for our next stop which was Esztergom. A beautifully campsite beside the Danube with Slovakia the other side of the river. This campsite had a pool which was the first stop for us once we had pitched our tent and unpacked. The town on the Slovakian side of the river has a Hungarian community living there. They are now Slovaks by default when the borders were redefined. This does cause some tension and unhappiness which remains unresolved.
Finally we headed off to Budapest – a short ride away.
Our hotel is in the middle of downtown Pest. Buda is on the “other” side of the Danube and known as the old city. We arrived hot and tired and did the usual chores to start with like laundry. After carrying the heavy bag of laundry to the subway to purchase a ticket for the travel services, we caught the tram to the “X” marked on the map by the kind reception lassie and walked to the next “X” she marked on the map. Clearly she has a bit of a dyslexia problem. We walked up and down the street which she marked, asked numerous people about a clothes washing facility and few speak or understand English or German or French. We run out of language options after those 3! Carl and I have decided that Laundromats are no longer on our agenda. We went back to the hotel, filled the bath with water, strung up our line in the room and did our laundry! We’re now off to experience a small bit of Hungarian life in Budapest. Justice cannot be done to this amazing city in such a short time but we’ll try!
Sunday, 15 June 2008
Ulm to Regensburg
(3 days – 311km’s 14hrs 45mins cycling time)
It’s hard to believe that it was only two weeks ago that we were cycling around Paris doffing our helmets to the Eiffel Tower, Arc d’Triompf and the Champs Elysees before pointing our noses to the east. In those two weeks (12 riding days) Rita and I have cycled 1231km’s on Bluebelle and spent 65 hours and 45 minutes in the saddle.
This time it’s my chance to do the blog and so here I am lying on the bed in our lovely hotel room in Regensburg with Rita sitting at the desk and typing – who says that voice recognition software does not work!
Rita finished off the last blog entry as we started our rest day in Ulm – and what a day it was. After doing our laundry we treated ourselves to a wonderful Thai massage. Having these lithe Thai girls climbing all over us – stretching, pulling and kneading us was quite an experience – very different from the standard sports massage. We both felt wonderful after that. I climbed to the top of the Ulm cathedral spire which at 161metres is the highest Church spire in the world. Rita is not one for heights and wandered around the square and took the picture of the cathedral which you’ll see amongst the pictures in the link. Ulm, like many of these old German towns needs to be seen to be believed. We had dinner beside a flowing stream and water wheel – in perfect daylight till well after 9pm at night.
The past 3 days of cycling is a blur of wonderful memories. The Danube cycle way is magnificent. Threading its way between streams and forests but always finding its way back to the Danube. The sections we have covered to date have probably been 70% tar and 30% good quality gravel paths. Believe me the path is not flat! A trip up to some Roman ruins had a sign board claiming to have a 20% gradient and I believe them. There are many cyclists and walkers on the cycle way, it has many twists and turns and intersects with many other cycle ways. You have to keep your wits about you to make sure you don’t end up on the wrong cycle way. A detailed map, available in the good book and cycle shops in the area or a bright, friendly GPS is mandatory. Rita and I have neither and get lost regularly or to put it more kindly simply “experience” more of this area. Our distances recorded in the log are therefore invariably always a little longer than the official distances claimed by the organisers. We have now learnt to latch onto members of the party with either maps or GPS’s and this has saved considerably on the calorie burn!
Our 2 campsites over the last 3 days were magnificent, situated beside a lake on the one night and beside the river on the next. Generally we get to camp around 3 – 4pm in the afternoon, pitch the tent, blow up the air mattress, and get organised and showered. Our double duvet as opposed to the double sleeping bag is the envy of many. Invariably there is a short sleep followed by a walk around the area and some food shopping. Dinner is around 7pm and has always been tasty, healthy, home cooked type food. Generally we find ourselves going to bed in the daylight around 8.30 – for a generous 10 hour sleep!
We are very fortunate to have wonderful people on the trip with us coming from United States, Canada, New Zealand, Switzerland, the UK, Holland and 5 of us from South Africa. After breakfast we leave camp between 8 and 8.30, spend about 5 hours riding and 2 – 3 hours visiting coffee shops together or interesting sights along the way. There is always an enormous amount of banter and good fun which all add up to a wonderful Orient Express experience. The pics on our site attempt to introduce you to some of these wonderful people and give you some idea of the countryside we’re cycling through.
Bluebelle is holding out well and as you can see from the pictures, the stoker doing a great job. Chat to you next week.
Carl
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