Timisoara to Baile Herculane

(227km’s, 11hrs)

(Cumulative from Paris: 2633km’s; 129hrs in the saddle)

2 July 2008

We left Timisoara in convoy until we were out of the busy part of the city and onto the open road. This open road was no doddle. It was narrow and very busy with big tankers and horse and trailer rigs, both the original with a real horse and the more modern motorised version and of course buses and cars. These came whizzing by at high speed. Not only were we trying to be aware of what was coming from behind but also cars overtaking from the front. The drivers have no regard for cyclists here. We were literally pushed off the road at one point. The roads have also deteriorated. Where are the peaceful, traffic free, well paved cycle paths we so enjoyed? Comfort stops are few and far between and when we do find one, we agree that the bush is more appealing!

Our children have been so encouraging regarding this expedition. Shelley says she thinks we’re amazing and is so proud of us and Richard thinks we rock! He says he is so proud of his mother cycling all this way and knows of no other mother who has done what I am doing. He says he tells everyone. It’s fantastic knowing that Shel and Rich are proud of us!

Our wounds are getting better each day. The nurse is checking the wound on Carl’s arm daily and changing the dressing. I no longer need to keep mine covered.

As we cycled through some of the villages along the way, local workers stop what they are doing when they see us and watch us ride past. I wonder what they must be thinking. Not only were their groups of locals – both young and not so young, but also groups of ducks, geese and hens roaming around.

We reached our lunch spot at about 10h30 this morning. The lunch truck was parked in a clearing on the edge of a forest. What a spread was awaiting us! Fresh cheese rolls, an assortment of cold meat (the salami type) lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber and pickles. The fruit table was groaning with the assortment: bananas, apples, and mango. What a treat.

Our hotel in this town – Resita – is a 2 star. I am not sure what the criteria are for these stars because that seems far too many stars for what it is. The spring on the lift door is very tired and one can’t help wondering if there is still anyone around who knows how to service the lift. The rooms are comfortable and very basic – and are en suite! We even have a balcony which overlooks a little river and the railway line. The noisy train glides along the tracks quite frequently and seems to use the hotel as the cue to sound the horn. The water in the taps is good for washing but nothing more. It was off to the supermarket to stock up with a 6 litre bottle of water. This is probably going to be part of our routine from now until the end of the trip. This hotel could easily have the setting for a movie filled with suspense, betrayal and intrigue! I’m glad we had this experience.

I am told the mercury rose to 38°C today. Our cycle gear which we hung out on the balcony on an improvised line made from the shoulder straps of our barrel bags is already dry – and that is in the shade! It has been great to sit on our beds and relax or doze off until our rider briefing , dinner and a stroll around the town – still light at 10 pm.

Today we cycled 99km’s.

3 July 2008

This morning our route started off with a 20km climb out of Rosita. We managed to leave the hotel at 06h50 to avoid heat and traffic. The climbs were long and hard but uneventful and we arrived at our lunch stop at about 10h00. Delicious guacamole and rolls with salad and lots of fruit was all spread out for us. We tucked in and had our fill and were on the road again. The road surface deteriorated substantially and there were major road works going on all along the way. Riding through the rural villages one sees families working away in fields of hay or vegetables. Very primitive methods seem to be used. The maize looks healthy and strong as do the endless fields of various vegetables. Many locals make use of bicycles to get around or a horse and trailer. The trailer is often piled high with hay or transporting the family to or from the field. The “drivers” are often really old women who have probably done this for the last 60 years or so. All these old people would have lived through the communist area which Romania was a part of until about 20 or so years ago. For many nothing much seems to have changed. We notice many locals have benches outside their homes on the sidewalk – they don’t have patios or verandas as we know – and sit on the bench watching passersby. We are greeted and cheered on as we pass by, providing some curious stares when they realise there is more than one person on this bicycle!

Today was long and hard for us – 128km’s of lots of hills and rutted roads. Thankfully leaving early saved us from most of the heat of the day. Our hotel is in a spa town. We’re in a 4* hotel in a lush setting at the end of the town. There is a holiday feel about this village which has thermal baths and more. We’ll be languishing in one tomorrow on our day off. This day off, even though we’ve only had 2 days riding since the last day off, is going to be good. My body aches after all the climbing and the heat today. I guess that will be the order of the day until we reach Istanbul in 17 days time. How this trip has flown.

Walking through the town one passes building which would have been full of grandeur in years gone by. Princes, Presidents and other important people would have enjoyed this opulence. The history of this town goes back to the Romans and even to Alexander the Great ! They are now deserted and have been left to deteriorate. Perhaps someone who has nothing else to do will snap one up and restore it to its former glory and make some money out of it. I can’t help feeling that this place is a secret waiting to be discovered.

Dinner this evening was shared with Jurg, Terry, Jim and Jaco. The menu offered chicken, chicken and more chicken. We ordered chicken with fries and salad and a sauce. This sauce was a garlic one which came in a cup. There was enough garlic in the sauce to protect us from Dracula who came from nearby Transylvania. Goodnight.